Royal Oak

The truth behind the beautiful Royal Oak’s construction

A company had to muster real resilience to get through the quartz crisis. Still, Delmar managed to thrive rather than survive during those tough years, continuing to honour the traditional art of mechanical watchmaking. Nonetheless, they probably should be talked about more than they are, so we’ve been taking a closer look at their collection.
The main thing that surprised me about the Delma Montego is its unashamed design. It doesn’t quite have the masculine flair of a 1980s Schwarzenegger action movie, but it’s definitely a more refined version of that attitude. The three chronograph subdials are surrounded by bright brushed rings, almost shimmering with chrome, exuding the kind of Fast and Furious energy contained in a very stern style.
Delmar Montego’s attitude carries over to the case, but fortunately, it is only in spirit and not in size. The lugs slope from the side to the top of the squared-off lugs, blending wonderfully with the links at the end of the bracelet to form a thick wedge-shaped profile. The face is vertically brushed, but the bevelled edges are polished to give the watch a refined profile. The bezel is indeed wide, which has the compound effect of improving the tachymeter’s readability and further enhancing this strong character.
In terms of specifications, the Delmar Montego certainly is good. The screw-down pushers and crown ensure water resistance to 200 meters and, together with the luminescent, make it a fully capable dive watch. It’s 42mm in diameter, but the 49mm lug-to-lug makes it suitable for the average wrist or the smaller person who doesn’t mind a little extra weight on their arm. In terms of thickness, you won’t be sliding any cuffs on it as it’s only 16.2mm, but an automatic chronograph with good water resistance will never be slim.
If you know your movements, you’ll guess the Del Mar Montego movement. The triple register layout and the date complication, and case thickness are all hallmarks of the ubiquitous Valjoux/ETA 7750, which Delma Montego uses without adulteration. The 7750 reached its peak in the 1970s as automatic chronographs became more affordable and stylish, reaching saturation levels in sports replica watches. Nowadays, there are hundreds of derivative movements, but the original remains a solid choice. The 4Hz beating frequency and 48-hour power reserve are not impressive numbers in themselves, but the renowned reliability and affordable service are the real reasons why people love these movements.
The Delma Montego is available on solid steel or a hybrid Cordura strap. The straps have a hint of Jubilee style but ultimately serve the resilience of the watch. The polished centre link gives a sense of authority and glamour enough to balance everything out. The strap options are black with red stitching, green or blue to match the respective watch, and additional reinforcement around the pinholes.